Coastal Offroad Closed Top Front Bumper Install Guide: 3rd Gen

This is a DIY weld-together kit. It arrives as a flat pack of laser cut steel plates that you tack together on the truck, so it fits your frame and body exactly, then weld out fully. If you can weld, it's a very rewarding build. If you can't, take it to a fabrication shop. This page walks you through the whole job in order, and the full Coastal Offroad manual, with every diagram, is linked at the bottom.

Before you buy or start

• Always tighten bolts to the right torque, and follow normal welding safety.
• Before winching, check the bumper over for weld cracks or stress marks.
• 2000 to 2002 trucks have shorter frame rails. Read the short frame note in Part 1 before you start.
• If you ordered the body lift version, some plates are taller and there's an extra plate. The full manual shows the differences.

Hardware you'll need

Some of this is your factory hardware, reused. The rest is common hardware from any auto or hardware store.

Part 1: Removing the factory bumper

Keep every factory bolt as you go, as some get reused.

1. Underneath, unplug the indicator and fog light bulbs (twist a quarter turn and pull).
2. Remove the fasteners along the bottom edge of the bumper (10mm and 12mm sockets).
3. In each wheel well, remove the fastener hidden behind the plastic where the bumper meets the flare (10mm), and the two bolts holding the bumper to the frame by the body mounts (14mm).
4. Take the plastic bumper off.
5. Remove the frame horns from each frame rail and the centre bumper support (12mm).
6. Trim the front of the fender liners on both sides. They cut easily with a sharp box knife.
7. Remove the factory tow hooks (17mm).
8. Grind the outside, top and bottom edges of the frame end plates flush with the frame rail. The inside edge can stay.

Before the bumper goes on, check the threaded holes in the frame are in good condition. If they're rusty, run an M12-1.25 tap (bottom holes) or an M8-1.25 tap (front holes) through them.

Part 2: Building the bumper on the truck

The plates are numbered in the order they go together. Lay them all out and label them before you start.

Get the truck level first

Level the truck front to back and side to side, checking along the bottom of the frame rails with a level. Use jacks, weight in the back or tyre pressures to get it right. Everything after this is set off level, so don't skip it.

The centre section

• Bolt the first two mounting plates to the frame hand tight, square them up, tighten, then tack them together.
• Drill one 1/2 inch hole up through the bottom of each frame rail, using the plate as your guide. It lines up with an existing factory hole on top.
• Don't skip this: sit a washer on top of each frame rail while you fit and tack the top plate. It leaves a tiny bit of room so the bumper isn't jammed tight on the frame when you take it off and refit it later. Leave the washers out when you fit it for real.
• Tack the nuts to the top plate now, because you won't be able to reach them once it's built.
• Test fit the front face plate as you go. Aim for a 6 to 10mm gap between the bumper and the grille, headlights and body all the way round. That gap allows for chassis flex off-road.
• Some plates are easier to fit with the bumper off the truck. The full manual shows which.

The side wings

Build one wing at a time. The aim is a gap that follows the body lines evenly. A spare strip of steel slipped between the bumper and body makes a handy spacer. Keep checking the gap as you tack each plate.

Light tabs and final welding

With the bumper off the truck, weld the light tabs in behind the square light cut-outs. Then finish all the outside welds and blend them smooth. The inside only needs stitch welds, with extra weld between the main mounting plates and the winch plate.

Part 3: Finishing off

• Paint all the bare metal on the frame where you ground and drilled, so it doesn't rust.
• Fit lights and a winch now, while the bumper is off. The light cut-outs suit standard 3 inch (76mm) pod lights, and the slotted tabs adjust to fit most brands.
• The bumper suits 8,000 to 10,000 lb winches and some 12,000 lb winches. If you're unsure about a 12,000 lb winch, send us its dimensions and we'll check with Coastal.
• The front plate has four holes for a number plate. Tap them M8 or use M6 bolts with nuts behind.
• Optional tube hoops for the grille and headlights come over length so you can cut and notch them to suit. The full manual covers fitting them.

Common questions

Does it come welded and ready to fit?

No. It's a flat pack DIY kit that needs welding together.

I have a 2 inch body lift. Do I need anything different?

Yes, there's a body lift version with taller plates. If you already have the standard kit, get in touch and we'll talk you through the options.